Sunscreen doesn’t have to be a luxury: UCSF calculated what UV protection really costs
At a time when consumers are increasingly complaining about rising prices of cosmetics and health products, new research by dermatologists at the University of California, San Francisco (UCSF) provides data that could influence how people choose sunscreen. The authors calculated the cost of using sunscreens in recommended amounts and showed that the annual cost of protecting the skin from ultraviolet (UV) radiation can range from about $40 to around $1,430, depending on the product price and on how much the skin is additionally protected with clothing and hats.
This is an economic evaluation published in JAMA Dermatology that addresses a very practical question: if sunscreen is too expensive, will people use too little and thus lose a large part of the real protection? Exactly this pattern, the authors note, has been identified in earlier research as well—higher price often means a thinner layer and less frequent reapplication, which in practice can result in weaker protection than the SPF number on the packaging suggests.
Huge differences among products with the same SPF
The analysis compared three sunscreen lotions with the same declared sun protection factor (SPF 50) and similar active ingredients. Despite a similar protection profile, the unit price and the cost of one recommended application differed dramatically: from about $0.04 to $3.79 per application. The study abstract states that the unit price among comparable products varied by up to 17.5 times, while the annual cost of use, depending on sun-protection habits and product price, varied by up to 36 times.
It is important to emphasize what this result is—and what it is not. This is not a comparison of “better” and “worse” sunscreen in terms of laboratory efficacy. It starts from the assumption that products with the same SPF and similar ingredients, within the declared and regulatorily mandated protection, can provide comparable photoprotection—but real-life protection depends on whether sunscreen is applied in a sufficient amount and often enough.
How they calculated costs and why context matters
The authors calculated costs based on 2025 prices, with assumptions about recommended amounts and frequency of application. The study abstract also states the data-collection and calculation period (from July 14 to August 31, 2025), and the primary outcome was an estimate of the annual cost of applying sunscreen according to recommendations, taking into account other sun-protection strategies. In short, the goal was not to assess how people actually apply sunscreen, but how much it would cost if they applied it “properly.”
In practical terms, “properly” most often means much more than most people intuitively apply. The American Academy of Dermatology emphasizes that for an adult to cover exposed parts of the body it generally takes about 1 ounce, or approximately 30 milliliters—often described as the amount that fills a shot glass. Likewise, recommendations stress applying sunscreen to skin that is not covered by clothing and not skipping areas that are often forgotten, such as the ears, neck, tops of the feet, and the scalp in people with thinning hair.
Everyday scenarios: the beach, the office, and outdoor work
To show how costs change depending on the situation, the researchers created several scenarios. For example, for a week at the beach, assuming two applications per day, the estimated cost ranged from about $6.57 to $115.12 for a person wearing shorts, or from about $7.75 to $135.82 for a person in a bikini. The range is not the result of a “secret formula,” but of the combination of unit price and the skin surface area that must be covered.
The largest range appears in annual scenarios. For a person who works indoors and has most of their skin covered with long sleeves and pants, the annual cost was estimated at approximately $39.28 to $688.56. For outdoor work, with greater UV exposure and greater need for regular renewal of protection, estimates range from about $81.53 to $1,429.42 per year. In other words, the market for similar products can produce a completely different annual “bill,” and habits and environment are just as important as brand.
Why a more expensive sunscreen can end up as worse protection
The key message of the study, which team leader Maria L. Wei—UCSF professor of dermatology who focuses especially on melanoma—also emphasizes when presenting the findings, is that encouraging the use of more affordable sunscreens and additional sun-protection behaviors can lead to better real-world protection. The logic is simple: if a product is expensive, some users will unconsciously ration it—apply a thinner layer, skip reapplication, or use it only in “extreme” situations. Then the declared SPF remains a number on the packaging, while the real protection is lower.
In practice, dermatologists have warned for years that people often do not apply enough product to achieve the protection stated on the label. If you add the psychological effect of price, a more expensive product can become a barrier to consistent and generous use—exactly what is needed for a meaningful reduction in the risk of sunburn and long-term skin damage.
Clothing and hats as a “multiplier” of protection and savings
A significant part of the analysis concerns other protection strategies: hats, long sleeves, and long pants. In the calculations, such behaviors are treated as a way to reduce the skin surface area that needs sunscreen, thereby lowering total consumption and cost. This does not mean clothing “replaces” sunscreen, but that a physical barrier provides part of the protection while sunscreen is focused on uncovered parts of the body.
For families with children, recreational users, athletes, and field workers, this is an important message: the combination of clothing, shade, and sunscreen can be both more effective and more financially acceptable than relying solely on a bottle, especially when spending extended time outdoors.
What professionals emphasize about UV risks and proper application
Although the focus is on cost, the foundation is public health: UV radiation has a cumulative effect on the skin, is associated with a higher risk of skin cancer, and with photoaging. Professional recommendations therefore often emphasize that protection is not reduced to “one good product,” but to habit and consistency.
According to the American Academy of Dermatology’s recommendations, it is best to apply sunscreen to dry skin about 15 minutes before going outside, and then renew protection, especially after activities that remove the protective layer. Such guidelines further explain why the cost is not trivial: proper protection implies an amount and frequency that are easy to underestimate, so the real annual total can differ significantly from what a consumer expects when buying the first bottle.
How to read the label and choose a product without marketing traps
For the average buyer, labels are full of marketing claims: “ultralight,” “invisible finish,” “premium,” “dermatologically tested,” and similar messages that do not have to be directly related to the level of UV protection. This research brings the focus back to the basics: if products have the same SPF and similar active ingredients, a price difference by itself does not mean a difference in photoprotection. The key is to choose a product that will be used generously enough and often enough.
The authors focused their calculations on lotions, not sprays or powders, explaining that lotions are most commonly used and that amounts are easier to estimate for them. In reality, someone will choose a gel or milk because of how it feels on the skin, another for compatibility with makeup, and a third for water resistance during sport or swimming. But regardless of the format, the basic problem remains the same: without sufficient amount and repetition, the label protection does not transfer to the skin.
The bigger picture: prices, prevention, and access to protection
In the background is a question that goes beyond dermatology: preventive measures work only if they are feasible and accessible. With sunscreen this is particularly sensitive because recommendations refer to regular and generous use, which increases consumption and cost, especially for those who work or train outdoors. The authors’ conclusion is that reducing potential cost—by encouraging more affordable options and by promoting additional protection strategies such as clothing and hats—could increase adherence to recommendations and thus reduce the risk of skin damage and the development of skin cancer.
In presenting the findings, UCSF researchers also emphasize the practical aspect: consumers often choose more expensive options believing that “costs more” means “protects better,” and this analysis shows that for real protection it is more crucial how much and how the product is used, along with additional habits of avoiding excessive exposure.
Limitations and what can be concluded from these numbers
Because this is a calculation, results depend on assumptions: how large the exposed skin surface area is, how often protection is renewed, what the product texture is, and how much is realistically lost during application. Habits differ in practice—someone will spend more time in the shade, someone will wear UV-protective clothing, and someone will apply less often than guidelines foresee. Still, the ranges are so large that they clearly illustrate the point: there are products with the same SPF whose per-use price differs multiple times, and the total annual cost can become a significant financial item, especially for people who are regularly in the sun.
Message for consumers: protection is a combination of habits, not just a bottle
For citizens who want to take a responsible approach to skin health, the most practical lesson is to focus on sustainable habits. If an expensive sunscreen is a barrier to using it generously and regularly, a more affordable option with the same SPF and comparable active ingredients may be a more rational choice. At the same time, a hat, long sleeves, and seeking shade are not an “alternative,” but a supplement that reduces the need for large amounts of product and makes consistent protection easier, especially in periods of increased sunlight intensity.
Sources:- JAMA Dermatology – study abstract on the link between sunscreen cost and sun-protection behavior link
- UCSF News Center – presentation of the findings and a statement by study lead Maria L. Wei link
- American Academy of Dermatology – recommendations on the amount and method of applying sunscreen link
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