Hoi An in Vietnam: lanterns, the Thu Bon River, and an old town whose evening atmosphere leaves a strong impression

Hoi An in Vietnam: lanterns, the river, and an old town that in the evening looks almost unreal

Hoi An is not a city that wins you over with noise, the height of skyscrapers, or the frenetic pace that many travellers associate with large Asian centres. Its impression is built more slowly, almost imperceptibly: through the yellow facades of the old quarter, narrow streets where commercial history and everyday life mingle, promenades by the water, and evenings when lanterns transform the entire space into a scene that remains in the memory long after returning from the journey. That is precisely why, for many, Hoi An is not just another stop in Vietnam, but a place they return to in stories, photographs, and plans for some future trip.

Located in central Vietnam, not far from the mouth of the Thu Bon River, Hoi An was for centuries an important trading port. UNESCO describes the old quarter as an exceptionally well-preserved example of a Southeast Asian trading port from the period from the 15th to the 19th century, and that historical layering is still visible today in the street layout, merchants’ houses, assembly halls of Chinese communities, and the distinctive Chua Cau bridge, also known as the Japanese Covered Bridge. In practice, this means that Hoi An is not a “reconstruction of the past”, but an urban space in which heritage has remained an integral part of everyday life, tourism, crafts, and local identity.

What readers and travellers most often first associate with Hoi An are the lanterns. But the whole story of the city is much broader than a photogenic evening scene. Hoi An is at the same time a city of a slower rhythm, a place where one walks more than one “ticks off” an itinerary, a city of tailoring workshops and old wooden interiors, markets, river rides, cultural programmes, and crafts that are still an important part of its image today. For that reason, it is understandable that Hoi An is regularly described as one of the most charming destinations in Asia, especially among travellers who are not looking exclusively for attractions, but for atmosphere.

The old quarter that is not a backdrop, but a living city

The centre of interest for most visitors is Hoi An Ancient Town, that is, the historic quarter that was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1999. Its special quality lies not only in the fact that it has been preserved, but also in the fact that the encounter of different cultural and commercial influences is very clearly visible within it. Vietnamese, Chinese, and Japanese traces do not act as separate layers, but as an organic blend formed through centuries of maritime trade and exchange. The streets are relatively compact, so Hoi An is not experienced as a city that needs to be “conquered”, but as a space through which one moves slowly, stopping in front of facades, in courtyards, in front of workshops, and by the river’s edge.

It is precisely that human scale of the city that is one of the reasons why Hoi An has such a strong effect on people who like to walk without much haste. During the day, its architecture reveals details that are easy to overlook in photographs: wooden shutters, dark beams, covered passageways, old merchants’ houses, temples, and assembly halls. In the evening, however, the same space takes on a completely different rhythm. Then the old quarter changes not only visually but emotionally as well: the light becomes softer, the river reflects the colours of the lanterns, and the movement of people slows down as if the city itself were imposing a different pace.

For travellers planning a longer stay, Hoi An is also a practical base for getting to know the wider surroundings of central Vietnam, but the old quarter alone can fill several days if the city is viewed outside the logic of quickly “doing” the sights. Those who want to stay in the heart of the atmosphere often look for accommodation in Hoi An close to the old quarter, precisely because the evening ambience comes into its own best when, after a walk, one does not have to leave the city centre immediately.

Lanterns as a symbol of the city’s evening identity

Today, Hoi An is almost inseparably linked with lanterns, and with good reason. Although lanterns are present outside special dates as well, the city is especially known for the atmosphere that intensifies in the evening hours and becomes even more pronounced during the full moon, when a traditional programme connected with a festival atmosphere and intensified lantern lighting is held. At that moment, Hoi An almost consciously plays the card of its own visual recognisability, but without the feeling of complete stage scenery: lanterns are decoration, identity, a commercial product, and a cultural sign all at once.

For many travellers, it is precisely that transition from day to evening that is the decisive moment in the experience of the city. While during the day architecture, history, and everyday life are in the foreground, in the evening Hoi An becomes a space of light and reflections. Lanterns hang above the streets, in front of shops and houses, along the riverbank, and on bridges, and the whole city takes on a gentle glow because of which it is often described as “magical”. Such a description can easily slip into a tourist cliché, but in the case of Hoi An it is not entirely unfounded: it is one of the rare cities in which the evening atmosphere truly changes the perception of space.

Especially impressive is the area by the Hoai River, a tributary of the Thu Bon, where evening walks turn into an almost obligatory ritual. There, visitors watch the lights on the water, sit in boats, or simply stand by the bank and follow how the old town changes into the night-time image for which it has become globally recognisable. Those who want to remain at the centre of that atmosphere often look for accommodation for visitors in Hoi An within walking distance of the riverbank, precisely because evening here is an important part of the experience, and not merely an addition to daytime sightseeing.

The Thu Bon River and walks that set the rhythm of the stay

The location by the river is not just a visual detail, but a key part of Hoi An’s identity. Historically speaking, it was precisely the river and maritime connections that made it possible for the city to grow into an important port and trading centre. Today, the river has a different role: it gives the city openness, respite, and a spatial rhythm that distinguishes it from denser urban destinations. Walks by the water, especially in the late afternoon and evening, are one of the reasons why Hoi An leaves the impression of a city that is not consumed in haste.

By the river, the city’s dual nature is easy to feel. On the one hand, it is a very visited destination, with numerous shops, restaurants, souvenir stores, and organised rides. On the other hand, Hoi An still manages to preserve scenes that seem calmer than expected: local residents going about their daily tasks, bicycles passing along the edge of the old quarter, boats moving gently on the water, and bridges and riverbanks from which the city is observed without hurry. That balance between tourist dynamism and the feeling of a slower life is probably one of the main reasons why travellers speak about Hoi An with so much affection.

The river is also a reminder that this is a city sensitive to weather extremes. According to reports from international agencies from the second half of 2025, floods in central Vietnam also affected Hoi An, and rising water levels influenced everyday life and tourism in the historic quarter. This fact is important because it shows that the postcard scene of the city also has its vulnerable side: beauty by the water also means exposure to seasonal rains and floods, especially during the wetter season.

The Japanese Bridge and heritage that is still being actively preserved

One of the best-known symbols of Hoi An is Chua Cau, that is, the Japanese Covered Bridge. Its importance goes far beyond the level of a classic tourist photo stop. The bridge is one of the most recognisable historical elements of the city and is often used as a visual symbol of Hoi An in promotional materials, guidebooks, and newspaper articles. After many months of restoration, the bridge was reopened to visitors in 2024, which the local cultural scene presented as an important step in preserving heritage and the stability of the structure itself.

That restoration also shows a broader problem, but also the value, of Hoi An as a heritage destination. The city is not “frozen” in the past, but must constantly be balanced between preservation and the pressure of contemporary tourism. The more popular a destination is, the greater the challenge of preserving its authenticity, infrastructure, and the everyday life of the local community. In Hoi An, that challenge is not theoretical: it is present in every attempt to retain the historic appearance while at the same time enabling the functioning of a city that lives from visitors, crafts, hospitality, and cultural programmes.

UNESCO’s description of the old quarter as an exceptionally well-preserved example of a historic trading port is therefore not only a compliment, but also an obligation. Preserving Hoi An is not a question of one building or one street, but of the entire urban fabric that must continue to function as a living space. Precisely for that reason, Hoi An continues to attract not only tourists but also researchers of heritage, architecture, and cultural policy, because it represents one of the rare examples of a city in which tourism, history, and everyday life still stand in direct contact.

Tailoring workshops, crafts, and a city that has preserved its touch with handicraft

One of the details by which Hoi An stands out from many other Asian tourist centres is the strong presence of tailoring workshops and crafts. Visitors have been coming there for decades not only for sightseeing but also for made-to-measure clothing, alterations, or orders for pieces that can be collected within a very short time. That part of Hoi An’s identity is so widespread that, for many, it is inseparable from the experience of the city: just like lanterns and evening walks, tailoring workshops are part of its recognisability.

But more important than the commercial dimension itself is the fact that Hoi An still nurtures a broader image of a crafts city. This is also visible in the international cultural recognition it received in 2023, when it was included in UNESCO’s Creative Cities Network in the category of crafts and folk art. That status is not an accidental addition, but confirmation that Hoi An is known not only for architecture but also for living forms of creativity, craftsmanship, and cultural production. In practice, this means that a visit to this city is not only an encounter with the past, but also with forms of work that are still active and visible in the street today.

This can also be felt in the atmosphere of the city. Hoi An does not have only a “beautiful backdrop” but also a network of small workshops, shops, handicrafts, and cultural content that give it depth. The traveller does not see only the finished product, but often the process as well: fabrics, cuts, lanterns, handicrafts, and details that remind one that this is a city where craft is still present as an important social and economic layer.

Why Hoi An suits travellers seeking a slower rhythm

Part of Hoi An’s appeal also lies in its contrast to the expectations many people have of travelling in Asia. Those who, after large cities, dense traffic, and an intense rhythm, are looking for a place to take a break often find exactly that in Hoi An. The city is touristically developed, but it is not conceived as a destination that demands constant movement and an exhausting schedule. On the contrary, its logic is slower: an early morning walk, a later visit to the old quarter, a break in the shade, returning to the river before dusk, and an evening under the lanterns.

That does not mean that Hoi An is a passive destination. It offers enough content for several days: from exploring the old quarter and local gastronomy to excursions towards the coast, islands, or cultural sites in the surrounding area. But what it is remembered for is not the number of “completed” locations, but the quality of the time spent in the space. Hoi An therefore particularly appeals to travellers who like cities with atmosphere, and less those destinations that are reduced to a list of sights.

In that sense, Hoi An is not spectacular in the way megacities or huge monuments are spectacular. Its strength lies in detail, in the transition of light, in the sense of scale, in old houses, and in the fact that it allows itself to be experienced without too much haste. Those who want to round off that rhythm with a multi-day stay often choose accommodation offers in Hoi An within or along the edge of the historic quarter, so that they can get to know the city both early in the morning and late in the evening, when it shows two different faces.

The best time to visit and what to keep in mind

According to available tourism and travel information, the period from February to summer is most often highlighted as the most pleasant for a stay because of drier and more stable weather, while autumn and part of winter are more sensitive to heavier rains, high water levels, and possible traffic disruptions. This is important information for anyone who views Hoi An exclusively through the prism of perfect evening photographs. The city is exceptionally attractive, but it is also part of the coastal and river system of central Vietnam, which means that weather conditions can strongly affect the travel experience.

At the same time, that climatic sensitivity further explains why Hoi An has such a pronounced sense of transience and change. The city looks magical when it is calm and dry, but its proximity to water, seasonal changes, and vulnerability to floods are reminders that this is a real urban space, not an idealised stage set. It is precisely that combination of beauty and fragility that probably contributes to its emotional power for numerous travellers.

For practical planning, it is also good to know that most international visitors reach Hoi An via Da Nang, whose airport is about 30 kilometres away, or approximately 30 to 45 minutes by car, depending on traffic. This makes Hoi An relatively accessible, yet sufficiently set apart to retain a different rhythm from the larger urban centre. That is exactly why many people do not experience it merely as an excursion, but as a place where it is worth staying overnight and giving it time.

A city that owes its beauty not only to its appearance

Hoi An leaves a strong impression because it combines several things that are rarely encountered in such a harmonious proportion: real historical value, a preserved urban whole, a living craft tradition, a river that determines the character of the space, and an evening atmosphere that makes it seem almost unreal. Lanterns are its most famous symbol, but they are not the whole story. Behind them stands a city of long trading history, cultural encounters, carefully preserved heritage, and contemporary life that has not been completely pushed aside by tourism.

That is why Hoi An is not a destination that is enough to simply “see”. It is a city that is better understood when one gives it time, when one walks down the same street by day and by night, when one sits by the river without any particular plan, and when one allows details, and not only landmarks, to shape the impression of the journey. At a time when many popular destinations act like stages for short stays and quick consumption of content, Hoi An still succeeds in retaining something rarer: the feeling of a place that has its own rhythm, its own scale, and a beauty that does not disappear as soon as the screen goes dark.

Sources:

• UNESCO World Heritage Centre – official description of Hoi An Ancient Town, historical context, location, and value of the old quarter (link)
• Hoi An World Cultural Heritage Conservation Center – official information on the city’s heritage and local conservation programmes (link)
• Hoi An Creative City – information on the reopening of the Chua Cau bridge after restoration and on the city’s contemporary cultural identity (link)
• UNESCO Creative Cities Network / Vietnam National Authority of Tourism – confirmation that Hoi An was included in UNESCO’s Creative Cities Network in the field of crafts and folk art (link; link)
• UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage – official description of the art of Bài Chòi, an important part of the cultural context of central Vietnam (link)
• Associated Press – report on the floods in central Vietnam in 2025 and their impact on Hoi An (link)
• Travel guides and more recent tourism information – data on the distance from Da Nang, seasonality, and practical stay planning (link; link)