Autumn in the kitchen of central Istria smells of ripe pumpkins, chestnuts, and wild mushrooms, and the fifth edition of the "Autumn on a Plate" event once again brings together local restaurateurs and producers who are preparing seasonal menus at promotional prices from October 4th to 27th, 2025. The program was officially announced on October 2nd, 2025, at the Restaurant Konoba Poli Banka in the settlement of Bašići in the municipality of Tinjan, and the organizational emphasis is on connecting family farms and restaurateurs and strengthening gastronomy as a reason to visit this region after the summer peak.
Autumn as the ideal backdrop for Istrian cuisine
The prevailing flavors are those that best describe the land between Ćićarija and Mirna: minestrone-style soups and warm stews, slow-cooked sauces over homemade pasta, ombolo, rolled veal, pumpkin in countless variations, roasted chestnuts, fragrant brandies, and – a classic among delicacies – boškarin. In central Istria, autumn also means a return to a slower pace of travel, so after a walk through stone towns like Gračišće or a visit to the Pazin fortress, it's ideal to descend into the taverns where recipes passed down through generations are cooked.
How "Autumn on a Plate" works
During the period from October 4th to 27th, the participating establishments will offer special three-course menus daily during their regular opening hours. Each menu combines a starter, main course, and dessert made from seasonal ingredients: wild mushrooms, pumpkin, apples, grapes, figs, and other autumn fruits. The price range of the announced menus is from 24 to 45 euros, depending on the ingredients and the concept of each establishment, with a focus on indigenous ingredients and local wines from house cellars.
List of participants and announced menus
This year's edition brings together seven addresses in the area of the Central Istria Tourist Board. Over three weeks, guests will be able to plan a gastro itinerary from Sv. Petar u Šumi and Pićan through Gračišće and Pazin all the way to Sveti Lovreč and Tinjan:
- Agroturizam Pod Čeripnjon (Dolinci, Sv. Petar u Šumi): minestrone with corn, ombolo in mushroom sauce with gnocchi, pumpkin cake | €27.
- Konoba Dišpet (Zajci, Pićan): pumpkin gnocchi with mushrooms, pumpkin-style pork with a side dish, pancake with curd cheese and fig jam | €27.
- Konoba Doma (Kranjci, Sv. Petar u Šumi): bruschetta with liver pâté, toasted lard, and chestnut cream with rosehip and cranberry jam; baked gnocchi with pulled pork (shoulder) and squashes; polenta dessert with grape topping | €28.
- Konoba Marino (Gračišće): pumpkin soup; homemade pasta with mushrooms and salad; roasted chestnuts and homemade brandy | €24.
- Restoran konoba Poli Banka (Bašići, Tinjan):
- Menu 1 – pumpkin soup; turkey stuffed with curd cheese and pancetta in a sauce of porcini and chanterelle mushrooms with chestnut purée; cake served with a glass of Muscat from their own cellar | €34.
- Menu 2 – wild mushroom carpaccio; Mare & Monti risotto with Kvarner scampi, shrimps, and porcini mushrooms; cake served with a glass of Muscat from their own cellar | €45.
- Tinjanski Vijulin (Tinjan): roasted pumpkin carpaccio with apple purée, Grana Padano, and pancetta crumble; ravioli stuffed with boškarin and curd cheese in a roasted pumpkin sauce; "autumn glass" dessert | €30.
- Tomažova konoba (Vošteni, Sveti Lovreč): welcome aperitif; Istrian prosciutto; soup; rolled veal with mushrooms and gnocchi; apple cake | €30.
The taste of tradition: boškarin, ombolo, and minestrone
Of all the ingredients that characterize Istrian gastronomy, boškarin is a story in itself. It is an indigenous Istrian cattle with distinctive long horns, whose meat is now synonymous with slow cooking and deep flavors. On the menus, it often appears as a filling for ravioli or slow-cooked in sauces with aromas of red wine and wild mushrooms. Alongside boškarin, the autumn table is unimaginable without ombolo, a cured and lightly smoked pork loin that gives a rounded, velvety character to sauces. Minestrone-style soups, on the other hand, are served as a hearty introduction to the meal: bean soup, stews with squash and corn, and the all'istriana combination of corn and seasonal vegetables that warms you up after hiking the trails above Pazin.
Seasonal ingredients on the plate: pumpkins, mushrooms, and chestnuts
Pumpkin is the backbone of autumn cooking: from creamy soups and roasted slices with meat to delicate desserts. In combination with chanterelles and porcini mushrooms, it makes risottos that smell of the forest, and in its sweet version, it is paired with almonds and spices like cinnamon. The chestnut is the "king" of the afternoon – roasted, in a purée, or as an addition to sauces. The smell of roasted chestnuts is best experienced on the paths around Gračišće and in the taverns where the fireplace is lit again after a warm September.
Why choose central Istria in October
Autumn here is quieter and more intimate. The number of guests is smaller, but the emotions are bigger: the vineyards have been harvested, the olives smell of the upcoming harvest, and the local establishments are filled with the buzz of regular guests and travelers consciously seeking authentic experiences. Through the "Autumn on a Plate" project, restaurateurs offer menus at specially designed prices to emphasize the value of regional ingredients and strengthen cooperation with family farms that supply the pantries of restaurants in Tinjan, Sveti Lovreč, and neighboring municipalities.
Where to book and how to plan your route
It is advisable to call ahead for a table, especially on weekends, as the menus are prepared in limited quantities. The official announcement and updated information about participants and opening hours are available through the tourist channels of central Istria. If you like to combine lunch with a short excursion, a light tour can begin with a visit to the picturesque streets of Gračišće, continue towards Pazin, and end in Tinjan, known for its cured meat delicacies.
Stories from the taverns: from the fireplace to a glass of Muscat
The autumn cuisine of central Istria is prepared on hearths and in ovens, over wood fires, or in pots that simmer for hours. At Poli Banka, a glass of Muscat from their own cellar accompanies the dessert, while in other establishments, the emphasis is on Teran and Malvasia, depending on the food combination. The houses also offer homemade brandies made from rue, honey, or mistletoe, so after lunch, it's easy to linger in conversation over a wheel of local cheese or a plate of prosciutto. If you head towards Sveti Lovreč, peek into the stone loggias and miniature squares that turn amber in the late afternoon.
For the curious: what is boškarin and why is it special
Boškarin is more than an ingredient: it is part of Istria's identity. An indigenous breed, once crucial on peasant farms for plowing and fieldwork, it is now raised with special care, and the gastronomic scene emphasizes its specific characteristics – darker, firmer meat that requires slower, more careful preparation. In autumn menus, it is often combined with pumpkin and mushrooms, which yields layered, earthy flavors. In Tinjan and the surrounding area, it is not uncommon for chefs to explain the origin of the meat and the aging process, turning every plate into a short course on local heritage.
Mushrooms and forests: autumn scents that lead to the table
Porcini, chanterelles, as well as more modest forest species, arrive in the kitchens as soon as the fog descends into the valleys around Pićan and Sv. Petar u Šumi. Risottos, thick soups, and creamy sauces coat homemade gnocchi and fuži. When combined with pancetta and hard cheeses, a depth of flavor is created that often makes the autumn menus sell out.
Pumpkin a hundred ways
From a delicate cream soup with notes of nutmeg, through roasted slices with ombolo, to sweet variations such as pumpkin cake or pancakes filled with curd cheese and fig jam – pumpkin is the star of every autumn. In Kranjci and Zajci, chefs enjoy combining pumpkin with sage and rosemary, while in some taverns, it is served with chestnut purée and a warm cheese sauce.
A three-day gastro itinerary
Day 1 – Northern circuit: morning coffee in Pazin, a tour of the Pazin Pit, lunch in Gračišće (pumpkin soup, pasta with mushrooms), an evening walk through the narrow streets and a glass of Teran.
Day 2 – Central circuit: a visit to Sv. Petar u Šumi and the monastery, lunch at an agritourism with minestrone and ombolo, an afternoon trip to Tinjan, dinner at Poli Banka with Mare&Monti risotto.
Day 3 – Western circuit: breakfast in the square in Sveti Lovreč, a walk along the dry-stone walls and olive groves, lunch at Tomažova konoba (rolled veal with mushrooms), a short tour of the village of Vošteni, and sunset with roasted chestnuts.
Practical information
- Date: October 4th–27th, 2025.
- Area: restaurants and taverns of central Istria – Tinjan, Pazin, Gračišće, Sveti Lovreč, Pićan, Sv. Petar u Šumi and surrounding places.
- Concept: three-course menus at promotional prices, with a focus on seasonal local ingredients.
- Recommendation: book in advance, especially on weekends; check daily menus and opening hours.
- Additionally: numerous attractions at short distances – castles, monasteries, trails and viewpoints, wine cellars, and olive growers.
- More information: official event overview with participant contacts.
Rural households and short supply chains
The project highlights producers from the immediate surroundings: vegetables from family fields, cheese and curd from small dairies, free-range eggs, meat, and cured products from local butchers. This approach shortens transportation, ensures freshness, and preserves the aromatic profile of the ingredients. In Tinjan, Sveti Lovreč, and Pazin, this way of cooperation has been part of the identity of the restaurant scene for years, and the autumn program further emphasizes this through specially designed menus.
Gastro dictionary for travelers
- Ombolo: cured pork loin, mild and aromatic, often in a sauce with mushrooms.
- Boškarin: indigenous Istrian cattle; meat with a rich flavor, ideal for slow-cooked dishes.
- Maneštra: a thick, spoon-eaten stew, often with legumes, corn, and seasonal vegetables.
- Fuži and gnocchi: homemade pasta that carries sauces well; in autumn, most often with porcini, chanterelles, and pumpkin.
Mini-guide to places
Tinjan: a municipality known for its cured meat dishes and traditional events; an ideal base for trips to Bašići and neighboring villages.
Pazin: the administrative and transport center of the region, with an impressive castle and the Pazin Pit abyss.
Gračišće: a medieval gem with viewpoints and stone streets; perfect for photography before lunch.
Sv. Petar u Šumi: monastery and gastro-tradition, authentic dishes are cooked in its agritourisms.
Pićan: a plateau, peace and quiet, perfect for "slow travel" and forest walks.
Sveti Lovreč: a fortified settlement with Roman traces and stunning stone complexes.
Inspiration for couples, families, and solo travelers
Couples often choose intimate taverns with a fireplace and evening wine tastings; families, on the other hand, plan excursions with shorter distances and lunches that have "something for the kids" (soups, gnocchi, pancakes with curd cheese). Solo travelers usually catch the early morning light for photos above Gračišće and then visit two or three dining spots throughout the day, combining starters and a glass of wine instead of full menus.
Photogenic Autumn
From copper-colored vineyards to olive groves, from stone facades to old wells, the landscape of central Istria at the end of October is simply photogenic. The streets of Pazin and the narrow alleys of Sveti Lovreč are viewed through the golden leaves of chestnut trees, while the background smells of roasted grapes and Muscat that glazes the dessert plates.
Contact and useful links
Plan your accommodation in central Istria
For travelers who wish to stay for a few days and visit the taverns, it is useful to choose a base near one of the following locations: Tinjan, Pazin, Gračišće, Sveti Lovreč, Pićan, Sv. Petar u Šumi, Vošteni, Bašići, Zajci, Kranjci. Clicking on the name of the place will open an overview of accommodation in that settlement.
Travel tips
- Check the daily menus – part of the offer depends on the availability of fresh ingredients and wild mushrooms.
- Arrive early – in small places like Zajci or Kranjci, parking spaces fill up quickly.
- Combine meals with short walks – the trails around Gračišće and the viewpoints towards Učka offer excellent scenery.
- For the drive between Sveti Lovreč, Pazin, and Tinjan, plan for 15–30 minutes, depending on the route.
Creation time: 02 October, 2025